2022 Oratoire St Martin Côtes du Rhône Les P'tits Gars Rouge

Biodynamic. This superb-value wine was previously known simply as the Côtes du Rhône cuvée. It is now named Les P’tit Gars (‘the little mates’), a term used to refer to the brothers Frédéric and François Alary around the town of Cairanne when they were boys. It’s crafted from mature-vine 42% Grenache Noir, 38% Mourvèdre, and 20% Syrah, with small amounts of Counoise, Cinsault, Vaccarèse, Muscardin and Terret Noir from the domaine’s new plantings (massal selection from Châteauneuf-du-Pape) included. Here, you get greater depth, structure and savouriness for a few dollars more than the entry-level Côtes du Rhône (P’tit Martin). No small oak barrels were used during maturation, and the wine was bottled without fining or filtration. It’s a deep yet fragrant release, all silk and sinew, with a soul of sweet blueberry spice and herbs cosseted by lovely, snug tannins and vibrant freshness. An outstanding value from a benchmark producer.

Oratoire is simply one of the greatest Estates in the Southern Rhône, a pioneer in biodynamics; low sulphur; the retention of old vines; and a producer of stupendous wines of depth, intensity, purity and terroir expression

While this Domaine can trace its winegrowing lineage back to 1692, it was tenth generation Frédéric and François Alary who turned Oratoire Saint-Martin into one of the most exciting estates in the Southern Rhône. A pioneer in biodynamics and low sulphur additions, all the while retaining a stock of old vines, this producer’s wines almost single-handedly elevated Cairanne to Cru status in 2016—putting it on a par with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Crozes-Hermitage. Nearing retirement age and with their children taking other career paths, Frédéric and François Alary began looking for a like-minded buyer in 2019. They found their new keyholder in the Abeille-Fabre family, owners of the impressive Château Mont-Redon in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Taking over the reigns, in 2019, Mont-Redon has, according to main man Pierre Fabre, got hold of the “best terroir in Cairanne”.

The vineyards of Oratoire Saint Martin are hand tended and managed organically with biodynamic preparations. The vineyards are regularly ploughed, with some plots done by horse. This is a costly, time-consuming and difficult practice but it is one that offers a range of benefits over the tractor alternative. Very low crops also play their part, with the Oratoire vineyards typically yielding less than 30hl/ha on average.

In the winery, large wooden foudres, as well as two egg-shaped fermenters (one concrete, one in wood) and a gravity-fed cellar, allows the fruit to be handled gently. There are no additions and very little sulphur is used. Of course, what truly makes these wines so good are fantastic vineyard holdings high up on the hill behind Cairanne and the continuous ownership of these sites adds to the quality factor—they have been in the Alary family's hands since the 1600s. Most Southern Rhône wines come from vineyards on the flats whilst Oratoire’s are on the slopes near Rasteau and look out to Gigondas and down at Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They have a soil profile rich in limestone and clay which lends elegance and complexity to these full-bodied, powerful reds.

In Oratoire you get arguably the finest producer in Cairanne. If you accept the often-heard claim that Cairanne is the supreme Village in the Côtes du Rhône (and we do!) then you know we are offering something special. In short, these are delicious and very naturally made wines that offer outstanding value year in, and year out.