2023 Lambert Crudo Shiraz

This year’s Crudo Shiraz is the first release from Luke and Rosalind’s new vineyard source, the Martingale vineyard in Gruyere. Friend and owner Chris Kennedy established the vineyard in 2017 on a gentle, north-facing slope at 140 metres above sea level on the grey duplex soils of the Lower Yarra Valley. He and Luke are on the same page when it comes to farming practices, and the site is managed sustainably. The clone of Shiraz planted on the site proved a drawcard for Luke. Unlike the lion’s share of Shiraz vines in the Yarra Valley, which are PT23 clone, the Martingale vineyard is planted to Tahbilk, a clone Luke worked with at the Tibooburra vineyard. It’s a clone that gives bunches with small round berries and rich wines with more body and mass than PT23. You can expect a delicious uptick in spice, structure and savoury nuance from 2023. As always, Luke takes a no-frills approach in the cellar. The fruit was destemmed, and spontaneous fermentation occurred in an old 5,000-litre oak cask before being bottled without fining or filtration. The results are super impressive: it’s a high-toned, captivating, layered Shiraz, svelte and silky in weight with deep dark fruits mingled with spicy pepper notes and earthy complexity. Joyful stuff.