2022 Birichino Rokurokubi & Inugami

In 2021, Mourvèdre led the charge in Birichino’s Rhône-inspired blend, Rokurokubi & Inugami. This year, Birichino’s source vineyard for Mourvèdre―Little Big Block vineyard in Contra Costa―delivered some of the most expressive fruit of the season. As such, the Birichino boys adjusted the components of the blend to ensure a complete and seamless wine without any one variety hogging the limelight. So, Cinsault from one of Lodi’s centenarian vineyards takes centre stage at 48% in 2022, followed by Mourvèdre at 29% and Grenache at 23%. The Cinsault component is sourced from head-pruned, non-irrigated and organically farmed vines in Lodi, planted in 1886. The Grenache is drawn from vines planted in 1910 in the Besson Vineyard in Santa Clara Valley, while the Mourvèdre (29%) is sourced from Little Big Block, a sandy site planted to old bush vines at the edge of the San Joaquin River in Contra Costa. The name and label design are a nod to a Bakemono Zukushi handscroll, painted in the Edo period of 18th and 19th century Japan. “It was either this or Run GMC!” hoots John Locke. The Cinsault is personified by the floating head on the label, with the Mourvèdre and Grenache represented by the anchoring wolf. Each batch was vinified separately. The Cinsault and Mourvèdre fermented wild in stainless steel with 10-15% stems, while the Grenache component saw a touch more whole-bunch inclusion at 20%. The wines matured in old wood for eight months before blending and bottling unfined and unfiltered. Comparing Birichino’s two Rhône-inspired blends―Scylla being the other― winemaker Alex Krause describes Rokurokubi & Inugami as the darker, deeper, more structured wine.