100 POINTS
Ken Gargett - WinePilot.com
The 60th release of this famous wine. Many years down the track, expect this to sit amongst the greatest the vineyard has given us. This famous old vineyard in Eden Valley next to the wonderful and scenic Lutheran church, was planted back around 1860, with pre-phylloxera material brought out by a family ancestor, Nicolaus Stanitzki. The first vintage was 1958. Hill of Grace was not made in 1960, 1974, 2000 and 2011. If the pass mark is a perfect or near perfect score, this walks it in. There is some of that exuberance we saw in the Hill of Roses, but this is more serious, more intense, concentrated and complex. We have tobacco leaves, cassis (one note I made was that it was like an alcoholic cassis smoothie), sage, black fruits, dried herbs, aniseed, and a touch of forest floor. Knife-edge balance, incredible length, that creamy and seductive texture, silk tannins – this is an amazing wine which more than lives up to the hype. Well cellared examples should provide immense pleasure over the next forty to fifty years.
100 POINTS
Andrew Caillard MW - The Vintage Journal
Medium deep crimson. Expressive raspberry, blackberry, cassis, hint elderberry/violet/ sage aromas with mocha, marzipan notes. Elegant yet powerful, dense but buoyant palate with ample blackberry pastille, blackcurrant, raspberry fruits, fine supple/ grainy tannins, lovely mid palate volume/ richness and superbly balanced grilled almond, roasted chestnut notes. Finishes claret firm with a featherweight plume of bittersweet tannins. A beguiling and lasting landmark Hill of Grace vintage with wonderful definition, vinosity and torque. 14.5% alc Drink 2028 – 2048
I love the effortless, understated calm that it projects amidst profound concentration, heightened exoticism and mesmerising line. The exotic five spice signature of this revered site is more characterful than ever. These grand old vines set a texture so supple it's silky; its impossibly fine tannins at once caressing and at the same time enduring, carrying a finish unrelenting for more than a minute. True Grace in every sense.
Incredibly fresh and refined, with deeply brooding notes of dark plums, mocha, graphite, five spice and cured meat. The palate is ultra-refined and pure, with balanced acidity, seamlessly integrated tannins and a creamy texture…It is truly exceptional, and is an icon of Australia for a reason.”
99 POINTS
Huon Hooke - The Real Review
Good depth of lightly purple-rimmed colour; the bouquet is a riot of dried herb scents from thyme to sage and oregano with smoky black pepper, vegetable stock, red and darker fruits including raspberry, dark plum and blackberry. The wine is full-bodied and flows evenly across the tongue, with an effortless intensity and suppleness of texture. Fine tannins are an important part of the very long, high-impact aftertaste. A superb wine of intricate detail and elegance.
CM: This is a super Hill of Grace release but it’s also an interesting one. Indeed it may even be polarising, which is not something often said of Hill of Grace. It’s ripped with dark berried fruit, it’s alive with roasted spice, campfire, undergrowth and earth, it shows enough toasty oak to give it something extra and it lays fine-grained tannin down in the most authoritative of ways. It also exceptionally long – and structural – through the finish, which is the main reason it qualifies as an outstanding release of Hill of Grace Shiraz. The extra interest comes in the wine’s truffle-like top notes. These notes give the aromas an exotic edge. There’s a nuttiness to this wine too; smoked nuts. It’s all going on. The fruit is voluptuous, the quality is clear. It’s Eden Valley Shiraz written in purple prose. Flourishes, there are plenty. 96 points
MB: A fairytale vintage and a wine of immense approachability. The weather saw great winter rainfall, especially after 2020, a big switch around for the seasons. Summer was one of the coolest since 2002, but good for even and long ripening. “Aren’t we lucky to have these old, ancient vines, on their own roots, in their place, telling their story of there, indeed aren’t we the older, old world in some respects”, says Stephen Henschke.
It’s hard to keep the superlatives packed in the box, the urge to go wild and effusive is all here. Huge in perfume, lots of dried herb and spice, woody notes, dark berry fruits, violets, sage, blueberry, milk chocolate-coated-berries; detail of fruit is amazing. Texture is the main deal, impossibly velvety, concentrated but a sense of freshness. Tannins are molten, mellifluous, supple and persistent. It does do wow factor – no one will miss the pedigree and detail. Epic stuff. 97+ points
99 POINTS
Dave Brookes - Halliday's Wine Companion
This release will go down in the annals of Australian fine wine as one of the classic releases for Hill of Grace. With a strong vintage and even stronger pedigree, the gnarled old, circa 1860s-planted, shiraz vines have really come up with the goods with this release and as I sit to taste this wine with Stephen Henschke he shakes his head and says, "it just amazes me that my grandmother's grandfather planted these vines". The eagle-eyed will notice a skip in vintage. The yields were down horribly in 2020 across all the Henschke vineyards but man, did 2021 deliver. Super bright magenta/crimson in the glass with a wonderfully deep aromatic profile. Doris plum, blackberry and black cherry with hints of mace, sage, panforte, cedar, dark chocolate, tapenade, pepper, charcuterie, graphite, crushed quartz and violets. From the aromatic detail to the amplitude, purity and flow of fruit, the wine is absolutely on song with stunning length of flavour and presence on the palate, sailing away slowly with tight, fine-grained tannins and the most graceful of travels on the palate. An absolute classic for this wine.
98 POINTS
Natasha Hughes MW - Decanter
The pre-phylloxera vines planted on their own roots stretch out in front of the beautiful old Lutheran Gnadenberg church, whose name translates to ‘Hill of Grace’. At the moment the wine is tightly coiled, but time in the glass allows it to open up and reveal layers that hint at its potential for mature splendour. The list of fruit characters is long – there’s red plum, cedarwood, bitter cocoa, Szechuan peppercorns, blood oranges and garrigue – but as soon as you list one flavour you’re struck by a completely different note. There’s nothing shouty about this wine, just subtle waves of flavour that roll over the palate, effortless balance and a finish that stretches towards infinity. Yes, it’s expensive, but it comes pretty darn close to perfection. Matured in 13% new, 87% seasoned hogsheads (84% French, 16% American) for 18 months.
98 POINTS
Erin Larkin - Wine Advocate
The 2021 Hill of Grace Shiraz comes from a vineyard that sits at 400 meters above sea level—a beautiful, remote-feeling place. The vineyard is picked block by block, defined by vine age, soil types, elevation and position within the vineyard. The older vines within the vineyard tend to hold their acidity and retain lower pH with higher natural acidity than the younger vines, which also assists in determining the parcels. "Ironically, this is the simplest wine to make; it's the vineyard that produces the wine like this. It's due to the work in the vineyard over many generations," says Stephen Henschke. So, to the wine. It is pure and fine, with a languid pool of fruit that is characterized by black silty tannins and persistent, seamless length. This speaks of the ancient place, the rocks, the vines. This is just a magnificent, graceful wine here, one that is "immune to hyperbole," as they say. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. The Wheelwright vineyard has 50-year-old vines, Mount Edelstone is over 100 years old, and the ancestor vines in the Hill of Grace vineyard are aver 150 years old.