2022 Mystery McLaren Vale Shiraz Deal No. 6459

Three years in French oak is a long time for any Shiraz. It works here because the fruit is so concentrated. The vines are around 80 years old, growing on sandy soils in McLaren Vale. The fruit was picked in the early morning to hold on to its natural acidity, then destemmed and berry-sorted. It had a week-long cold soak before a slow, 14-day ferment in small open-top fermenters. Then came 36 months in French barrels, 60% of them new. The maker produces it in very small quantities from hand-selected fruit. Critics who tasted across the 2022 vintage rated it an excellent year for the region. Ned Goodwin found this wine full-weighted yet fresh and deft. He picked dark cherry, liquorice, bitumen and cocoa nib over cushy tannins. Expect blackberry, plum and dark chocolate too, with a long, pliant finish. The family behind it sells it in the upper tier of their own range. That’s why the name stays off the label. It’s drinking well now, and they give it until 2045. Decant it for 30 to 60 minutes, as they suggest. Then pour it for the friend who thinks big McLaren Vale reds can’t be fresh.