2023 Mystery Burgundy Aligote Deal No. 6384

Aligoté has a reputation as Burgundy’s tart, neutral white. This village set out to prove otherwise. In 1997 it won its own village appellation, recognising the grape that made its name. This bottling blends three vineyards, each facing a different direction, on limestone, clay and marl. The maker ferments it cool, at 18 to 20°C, to protect Aligoté’s delicate aromas. Most of the wine matures in stainless steel, with a share in large oak tuns for roundness. It’s bottled in summer to keep it fresh. The producer holds HVE level 3, France’s top environmental certification for farms. It makes wine across the Côte Chalonnaise and Côte d’Or. Claire Nesbitt scored it 91 points. She found crushed stones, green apple, pear skin and pie crust, with a creamy, balanced palate. Expect lime and hawthorn blossom up front. Then comes a rounded, gently creamy palate with a taut, chalky line. It’s a white Burgundy for people who find big Chardonnay too much. The creamy texture and lively acid make it a natural with poached fish in a buttery sauce.