2022 Cellier Saint Benoit Vin Jaune 2014 (620ml)

Bottled from a single cask, this grower makes a specific style of Vin Jaune, principally from Savagnin vines in Les Chambines. Three factors help understand the style being produced here. Firstly, Benjamin selects his wine for the Vin Jaune by the barrel, looking for the least expressive, most tightly wound wines, as he believes that this leaves more room for the complex chemistry of sous voile aging to play its role. Also, unlike many in the region who age their wine in the humid, underground cellars, the Benoit family has figured out that their best wines come from barrels stored in their winery’s custom-designed grenier or attic. Finally, Benjamin Benoit also bottles his wine after nine years instead of the mandatory six. He finds those extra three years bring more salinity and umami to the glass. Rather than an excessively powerful and unctuous Vin Jeune, this is supremely detailed and light-footed, more like a Château-Chalon style, offering aromas and flavours of pear, hazelnut skin, green walnuts, hints of undergrowth and loads of spice. There are some light tannins and a mouthwatering saline and intensely spicy finish.