2020 Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Rouge

Biodynamic. Crafted from 50% Mourvèdre, 35% Grenache and 15% Syrah, the Haut Coustias was always the Alary brothers’ tour de force—the most distinctive wine of the Domaine (even if we often rate Les Douyes just as highly). The wine is made from the fruit of 65-year-old vines planted in the rocky, complex soils (limestone-rich with blue clay, 40% active limestone and some alluvial stones as well) of the estate’s highest plots. Only 8,000 bottles are produced each year. The grapes are sorted three times (in the vineyard, then pre- and post-destemming) and the wine is naturally fermented in concrete before spending 10 months in large, 22-hectolitre wooden foudres. One of the Rhône’s few remaining Mourvèdre-dominant yardsticks, this shows all the animal and dark spice that you expect of a great cuvée. There’s more red than black on the nose, with the fruit offset by chalky, mineral scents. Driven by citrusy drive, the palate fuses red fruit sweetness with black olive and an amaro-like lift, finishing with finely polished tannins and impressive chalky length. Such is the balance and digestibility, it’s already approachable, though will be at its best ten years from now.