Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé, Musigny Grand Cru 2019 1500mL

Established in 1450, it is now owned by sisters, Comtesse Claire de Causans and Marie de Ladoucette with the day to day management team comprising François Millet (technical director), Eric Bourgogne (vineyard manager) and Jean-Luc Pépin (sales and marketing director Chambolle-Musigny is a commune capable of producing wines which really charm. 'Elegance', 'finesse', 'nobility', 'perfumed' are all descriptions which flow from the pens of devotees, punctuated with others which infer understated, subliminal attributes, 'seductive', 'beguiling' and 'enticing' – hallmark Vogüé.

De Vogüé is a true producer of reference in Chambolle-Musigny, making a weightless yet flavour-packed style. The Domaine incorporates grands crus, premiers crus and villages Chambolle-Musigny in the holdings, including a tiny parcel of Musigny Blanc. Key here is exemplary terroir allied to strict vineyard husbandry and a sensitive, decisive hand in the cellar. 

January was mild and very humid, with temperatures 5°C above normal. By contrast, February was cold, with temperatures 3-7°C below normal. Spring showed its face in early March, before heavy rains, followed by a return to winter, with snow showers from the 18th. April brought milder temperatures, although by this stage the growing season was late. Alongside the full water reserves, this briefly prompted comparisons with 2013. However, temperatures then rose quickly, by the second half of the month reaching 8-10°C above average. In May, summer temperatures quickly set in, 7-9°C above seasonal norms. The first flowers appeared on 24th May
and, as Jean-Luc Pépin writes, “We could smell the flowers
on 26th May”. Flowering reached its mid-point on 28th29th May. 

From first flowers to first fruit set on the 29th, flowering happened in five days. Unusually, June began with rain showers, the first 11 days seeing 108mm of precipitation. Weather conditions improved from the 13th with the return of high pressure. As in 2017, from the start of flowering to bunch closure took just three weeks. June ended with scorching heat, due to high pressure and a north-east wind. Summer conditions continued in July, with a few scattered storms bringing total rainfall to 60mm for the month and ferocious heat at month-end causing sunburn on a few bunches. Véraison (colour change) began on 11th July, two days ahead of 2017, confirming the precocity of the vintage. The mid-point of véraison was reached on 27th July. As JeanLuc Pépin says, “You have to go back to 2006 and then to 1983 to experience such a hot July”.
 

High temperatures came to an end on 8th August, with two
stormy days. At this point the colour of the grape pips was
observed to turn from green to brown; this took around one
week. There were three episodes of rain showers during
August, bringing the total precipitation to just 30mm; too
low to make much difference to the parched soils. By late August, the vineyards were in an excellent state of health: the sugars were rich and the pulp separated easily  from the skin, releasing juices readily. A perfect time to begin picking!
 

Harvest started on 30th August and finished on 5th
September, mid-morning. It took place under excellent
conditions, with no rain and moderate warmth. Any substandard berries – those affected by downy mildew in early
July or by sunburn in late July – were meticulously removed. Jean-Luc Pépin summed 2018 up as an “atypical growing season” and a year in which “supporting natural acidity [was] preserved because of early picking”. Thanks to this, the domaine’s terroirs have been given the best possible chance to express their true character.

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