2008 Müller Catoir Schlossel Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling (375ml)

“Even had one not tasted the corresponding Beerenauslese, the deep bronze color; notes of leather and dried mushrooms; and nasal prickle of Muller-Catoir’s 2008 Gimmeldinger Schlossel Rieslaner Trockenbeerenauslese would make clear that you’ve traveled far deeper into the realm of botrytis than this grape will normally take anyone. Orange marmalade, peach preserves, and fresh lemon inform a plate of Eszencia-like, almost gelatinous viscosity, with a correspondingly uncanny sense of lift and of huge residual sweetness practically canceled out. The sharpness of citrus, pungency of citrus oil and botrytis spice; and piquancy of toasted nuts lend indelible and invigorating intensity to the finish, while nut brittle, glazed apricot, and peach preserves uphold a confectionery yet not hugely sweet persistence. At 400 grams residual sugar and 19 grams of acid, your mind can scarcely wrap itself around the analysis of this concentrate, much less around its performance. It’s almost too early to treat it as wine. There have been other remarkable examples of such Rieslaner essences in this estate’s history – though perhaps never one this intense – and experience suggests it will be worth following this one for more than three decades.” 96 points, David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate (tasted 2010)