2022 Domaine Theulot Juillot Mercurey Château Mipont Rouge

Nathalie Theulot's grandfather planted these vines in 1963. Today they're among the oldest in Mercurey. That matters. These are mass-selection vines, a living snapshot of old Burgundy, in a village where much has been replanted. They grow in Château Mipont, a lieu-dit in the heart of Mercurey. It faces south and sits sheltered from the prevailing winds. Nathalie reckons it deserves Premier Cru status. On paper it's only a village wine. The fruit is fully destemmed and cold-soaked for five days. It then ferments wild in vat and spends 12 months in barrel, 20% of them new. Expect sweet bramble fruit, earth and spice. Fine, powdery tannins and bright freshness thread through a deep, plush texture. Its frame is more elegant than you might expect from Mercurey. Duck is the classic match, and grilled meats work well too. A roast duck on a cool evening would do it justice. At a time when many Côte d'Or growers charge more for basic Bourgogne, Mipont is a quiet act of rebellion.