This is, without any doubt, Domaine Ponsot’s top wine and one of the absolute elite wines of the Côte de Nuits. The terroir itself largely explains why. Domaine Ponsot is famously the largest landowner in Clos de la Roche, perfectly situated (almost entirely within the historic Clos itself) and with some of the oldest vines (averaging approximately 60 years of age). Clos de la Roche was expanded in the 1950s to include a range of neighbouring sites (Les Fremières, Les Genevrières, Les Mochamps, Monts Luisants, etc.) which surround the original vineyard or Clos. The original terroir makes strikingly different wines to the surrounding sites now included in the AOC. Ponsot own almost three hectares of the original 4.5-hectare Clos (widely considered to be the finest part of the Clos de la Roche AOC). The rest of Ponsot’s holdings are within the Monts Luisants lieu-dit (always bottled and sold as Clos de la Roche—it has the same soil but is higher on the slope).
Critic Reviews
96 POINTS
William Kelley - Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The first vintage produced since the departure of Laurent Ponsot, the 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes soars from the glass with a deep and complex bouquet of rose petal, wild berries, plums, sweet spices, wood smoke and rich soil. On the palate, it's full-bodied, layered and velvety, with an elegantly textural attack, excellent depth and concentration and an ample chassis of fine-grained tannins that are almost entirely concealed by a generous core of vibrant fruit. The finish is long, intense and stony. One of the wines of the vintage, this magical Clos de la Roche stands out for its striking dimension and completeness.
96 POINTS
William Kelley - Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is also showing very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with a deep bouquet of sweet red berries, plums and cassis, complemented by sweet soil tones and lifted top notes of orange rind and peonies. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's deep and concentrated, its velvety tannins and succulent acids cloaked in an ample core of fruit. This is a brilliant wine from Domaine Ponsot.
96 POINTS
Tim Atkin MW - Decanter
The Ponsots' 3.5ha holdings here are divided between the Monts Luisants and Clos de la Roche grand cru climats, producing a fine, elegant, floral cuvée with no new oak, plenty of precision and freshness and a sweet core of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit.
91 POINTS
Neal Martin - Vinous
The 2017 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru does not quite deliver the same complexity as its peers, coming across earthier and more backward, though it does develop a very attractive mineral element. It frays at the edges in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, clean, red berry fruit and a touch of black pepper, but it lacks a bit of complexity and feels a little forced and pruny on the finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.
Winemakers Notes
This is Ponsot's first among equals. The Domaine is the largest landowner in the Clos de la Roche with perfectly situated vines (almost all within the Clos itself) and some of the oldest vines (average age approximately 60 years). Clos de la Roche was expanded in the 50s to include a range of neighbouring sites (Les Fremieres, Genevrières, Mochamps, Monts Luisants, etc.) that surround the original vineyard or 'lieu-dit' - Clos de la Roche. It is therefore important to understand that of Ponsot's 3.4 hectares, 3 are within the original 4 hectare Clos de la Roche itself! That is, Ponsot's holdings represent ¾ of the original vineyard, which is widely considered to be the finest part of the Clos de la Roche AOC, rightly or wrongly. It is certainly it's own terroir! It is also certain that the reputation of this AOC has relied heavily on the wines of Domaine Ponsot. How much of this quality is related to terroir and how much to the age and quality of Ponsot's vines as well as the quality of his farming and winemaking is impossible to know. It is often hard, in Burgundy, to separate the quality of the grower from the quality of the terroir. Or at least the lines are blurred. The rest of Ponsot's holdings are within the Monts Luisants lieu dit that was always bottled and sold as Clos de la Roche (it has the same soil). Terroir aside, this wine is clearly the reference for the AOC. To us, it is not only Ponsot's grandest wine, but also one of the greatest red wines in Burgundy. The price needs to be viewed in this context. As the note below makes clear, this is absolutely superb and will make a dramatic bottle for decades to come."An overtly floral-suffused nose, and in particular violet and lilac, adds a touch of elegance to the liqueur-like red cherry, plum and dark currant scents. The exceptionally rich and full-bodied flavors possess an outstanding level of dry extract that imparts a highly seductive texture to the mid-palate.
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Tasting Notes
This is, without any doubt, Domaine Ponsot’s top wine and one of the absolute elite wines of the Côte de Nuits. The terroir itself largely explains why. Domaine Ponsot is famously the largest landowner in Clos de la Roche, perfectly situated (almost entirely within the historic Clos itself) and with some of the oldest vines (averaging approximately 60 years of age). Clos de la Roche was expanded in the 1950s to include a range of neighbouring sites (Les Fremières, Les Genevrières, Les Mochamps, Monts Luisants, etc.) which surround the original vineyard or Clos. The original terroir makes strikingly different wines to the surrounding sites now included in the AOC. Ponsot own almost three hectares of the original 4.5-hectare Clos (widely considered to be the finest part of the Clos de la Roche AOC). The rest of Ponsot’s holdings are within the Monts Luisants lieu-dit (always bottled and sold as Clos de la Roche—it has the same soil but is higher on the slope).