NV Spinifex Solana (Fourth Cuvée)

This is the fourth bottling of La Solana—a multi-vintage, barrel-matured, ‘perpetual blend’ white that Schell maintains in a modified solera system. Started in 2005, the blend is kept in old barriques that are topped up each with white wine parcels that would otherwise have gone into the Lola. The barrels are stored outside in the elements, hence the name Solana, meaning “under the sun.” The composition of La Solana mirrors that of Lola over the years, i.e. it is based on Barossa and Eden Valleys Ugni Blanc, Semillon, Clairette, Viognier and Roussanne. This latest bottling is wonderful. The style falls somewhere between an Oloroso and a Vin Jaune; very saline and nutty with lovely stone fruit notes. It’s a unique wine that could be served and consumed as you might a dry Sherry, even though it’s not fortified and is lower in alcohol (making it far more drinkable).