Disgorged November 2022. Petit Meslier has formed an integral part of Aurélien Laherte’s Les 7 cuvée for almost 20 vintages. One of Champagne’s heirloom varieties, Meslier is a historic cross between Gouais Blanc and Savagnin. Although it has been largely forgotten in Champagne, the Laherte family has remained attached to the grape’s personality and its ability to retain acidity, even in warmer vintages. Between 2014 and 2018, Laherte established a mid-slope vineyard on Chavot’s clay/limestone soils, using massal cuttings from the domaine’s oldest Meslier vines.
This wine marks the third release of this exciting project. The grapes are pressed in Laherte’s antique Coquard press, and the juice ferments naturally in old barrel. The wine ages for six months on lees in barrel and then a further 18 months sur lattes. This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage with 40% reserve wines and was disgorged by hand with just 2 g/L dosage (extra brut).
When Domaine Didier Dagueneau decided to craft a sparkling wine in Pouilly-Fumé (yet to be released), Benjamin Dagueneau chose Petit Meslier as its hero. From the first glass, it’s clear why Laherte and Dagueneau have decided to put their faith in this unique, forgotten variety. Champagne thrill seekers should not hesitate.
Critic Reviews
92 POINTS
Claire Nesbitt - James Suckling
Grapefruit, chamomile, dried lemons and salted pineapple on the nose of this very fresh, zesty Champagne. It’s medium-bodied with an attractive yellow fruit profile and sharp acidity. Bracing and refreshing. 100% petit meslier. Based on 2021, with 40% reserve wine. Disgorged October 2023. 2.5 g/L dosage.
91 POINTS
Stuart Pigott - James Suckling
This is quite funky from long lees contact and needs some aeration to blow that off. However, it’s easy to understand why it was made this way, for it needs the creaminess from the lees and kiss of oak to help harmonize the strident green apple-acidity. A touch of lime at the finish. Made 100% from petit meslier, one of the lesser-known grape varieties of Champagne. Drink or hold.
91 POINTS
Antonio Galloni MW - Vinous
Note: This review refers to a later disgorgement. “The NV Extra Brut Petit Meslier is bright, punchy and savory. Dried lemon peel, mint, almond, white flowers and sage give the Petit Meslier tons of aromatic and flavor complexity. I especially admire the translucent energy here. This is an incredibly distinctive, flavorful Champagne with a lot of character that comes from the blend of the base vintage and a considerable amount of reserve wines. Disgorged: October 2022.”
91 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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Tasting Notes
Disgorged November 2022. Petit Meslier has formed an integral part of Aurélien Laherte’s Les 7 cuvée for almost 20 vintages. One of Champagne’s heirloom varieties, Meslier is a historic cross between Gouais Blanc and Savagnin. Although it has been largely forgotten in Champagne, the Laherte family has remained attached to the grape’s personality and its ability to retain acidity, even in warmer vintages. Between 2014 and 2018, Laherte established a mid-slope vineyard on Chavot’s clay/limestone soils, using massal cuttings from the domaine’s oldest Meslier vines.
This wine marks the third release of this exciting project. The grapes are pressed in Laherte’s antique Coquard press, and the juice ferments naturally in old barrel. The wine ages for six months on lees in barrel and then a further 18 months sur lattes. This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage with 40% reserve wines and was disgorged by hand with just 2 g/L dosage (extra brut).
When Domaine Didier Dagueneau decided to craft a sparkling wine in Pouilly-Fumé (yet to be released), Benjamin Dagueneau chose Petit Meslier as its hero. From the first glass, it’s clear why Laherte and Dagueneau have decided to put their faith in this unique, forgotten variety. Champagne thrill seekers should not hesitate.