93 POINTS
Antonio Galloni MW - Vinous
Bérèche's NV (2009) Extra Brut Reserve fleshes out beautifully in the glass. Today, the 2009 is more about textural depth and volume, while the aromatics are less expressive. Still, this is classic Bérèche in its feel and style. Layers of rich, generous 2009 fruit wrap around the finish. The extra year of aging in bottle has given the Extra Brut Reserve gorgeous contours. The Extra Brut Reserve is the same blend as the NV Brut Reserve, with one more year on the lees, and 30% reserve wines. Dosage was 2 grams per liter. Disgorged October, 2012.
92 POINTS
Stephan Reinhardt - Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The NV Brut Réserve Vieilles Vignes Cuvée Non Filtrée is a blend of all the four different terroirs cultivated by the Bérêche family—35% Ludes (chalk), 30% Ormes (sand), 25% Mareuil-sur-Port (clay) and 10% Trépail (chalk), which adds up to seven hectares for this cuvée. The current release of the non-vintaged unfiltered Réserve is based on the 2015 vintage and, as usual, includes 35% of reserve wines from a solera. Fermented in oak barrels and small cuves, the assemblage of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir (from vines averaging 40+ years old) is pure and fruity on the nose, very elegant and spicy, with red fruit and cherry aromas. Pure and elegant on the palate, with intensity, remarkable finesse and complexity, the Brut Réserve reveals a still tight but long, salty, promising finish. The Brut Réserve is being disgorged in January, July and October, and I suppose the sample Raphaël served me in April 2018 was from January (dosage: seven grams per liter). 65,000 bottles made plus some magnums and jeroboams.
Plenty of pastry and lees-derived chalkiness and fresh cream notes. The palate is very fleshy, expansive and accessible and yet it stays very pure, fine and focused. Great shape. Mostly pinot with 35 per cent of reserve wine.
Pinot noir and chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims, this has strong pinot noir influence with wild red berry fruit aromas as well as brioche and woody, foresty notes. The palate walks a clever line of tartness and flavor that is right in the red fruit zone. This is full of life. Twists savory into hazelnut and pastry at the finish. Drink now – this is terrific value.
92 POINTS
Antonio Galloni MW - Vinous
The NV Extra Brut Reserve, based on 2008, shows just how compelling the vintage is. Freshly cut flowers, crushed rocks and delicate fruit inform this beautifully balanced, harmonious wine. The Extra Brut Reserve isn't big or obvious, rather it is a Champagne that impresses for its energy and pure focus. Ethereal, high-toned hints of Mirabelle plums, kirsch and crushed flowers linger on the sublime finish. The Extra Brut Reserve is equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay – the same blend as the Brut Reserve – with one more year in bottle. Dosage was 2 grams/liter. Disgorged November 2011.
92 POINTS
Antonio Galloni MW - Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The NV Extra Brut Reserve, based on 2008, shows just how compelling the vintage is. Freshly cut flowers, crushed rocks and delicate fruit inform this beautifully balanced, harmonious wine. The Extra Brut Reserve isn’t big or obvious, rather it is a Champagne that impresses for its energy and pure focus. Ethereal, high-toned hints of Mirabelle plums, kirsch and crushed flowers linger on the sublime finish. The Extra Brut Reserve is equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay – the same blend as the Brut Reserve – with one more year in bottle. Dosage was 2 grams/liter. Disgorged November 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.
Bereche was a clear standout among my visits earlier this year. The wines are loaded with distinctiveness and character across the board. Raphael Bereche is young, but his sheer enthusiasm and conviction are likely to take him far. The functional cellar reflects a minimalist aesthetic that focuses on non-interventionalist farming and winemaking. Partial vinification in barrel, ambient yeasts and blocked malolactic fermentations are choices that inform these gorgeous wines. Bereche vinifies his vineyards separately, which makes it possible to taste the various parcels from barrel or tank just after the harvest, a la Burgundy. Bereche is one of a small number of producers who prefer to age their top wines on the cork (instead of crown capsule), a time-consuming, painstaking process that is just one example of the total commitment to quality that is the rule here. Bereche believes aging on the cork results in wines that are more complex and integrated. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Unfortunately, there is no Rose this year, as the estate is changing their approach with that wine. A new release is scheduled for 2013. Still, there are plenty of other gorgeous wines to choose from in this fabulous lineup.
92 POINTS
Antonio Galloni MW - Robert Parker Wine Advocate
The NV Brut Reserve is a very pretty, silky wine graced with dried apricots, dried peaches, flowers, and spices. Soft and enveloping through to the finish, the Brut Reserve impresses for its overall balance and finesse. The aromas and flavors are just a touch forward, suggesting the wine is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. The Brut Reserve is roughly equal parts Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, based on the 2009 vintage (with the addition of 30% reserve wines) aged half in oak and half in steel. Dosage was 8 grams per liter. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015.
Bereche was a clear standout among my visits earlier this year. The wines are loaded with distinctiveness and character across the board. Raphael Bereche is young, but his sheer enthusiasm and conviction are likely to take him far. The functional cellar reflects a minimalist aesthetic that focuses on non-interventionalist farming and winemaking. Partial vinification in barrel, ambient yeasts and blocked malolactic fermentations are choices that inform these gorgeous wines. Bereche vinifies his vineyards separately, which makes it possible to taste the various parcels from barrel or tank just after the harvest, a la Burgundy. Bereche is one of a small number of producers who prefer to age their top wines on the cork (instead of crown capsule), a time-consuming, painstaking process that is just one example of the total commitment to quality that is the rule here. Bereche believes aging on the cork results in wines that are more complex and integrated. Based on what I tasted, it’s hard to argue that point. Unfortunately, there is no Rose this year, as the estate is changing their approach with that wine. A new release is scheduled for 2013. Still, there are plenty of other gorgeous wines to choose from in this fabulous lineup.