2023 Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre

Diam. Unlike Côte de Léchet, Defaix’s Monty is made from purchased fruit. Didier Defaix tells us he has worked with the same grower for 20 years. Although the vineyards are not organically certified, the family “works like us” (that is to say, he’s very happy with the quality). The Montée de Tonnerre is drawn from old vines in Chapelot, which forms 20 hectares of the vineyard on a similar southeast-facing aspect to the neighbouring Grands Crus. The vineyard’s iconic grower is, of course, Raveneau, although Moreau-Naudet, Billaud-Simon and others farm vines in this prestigious lieu-dit. This cuvée ferments with native yeasts entirely in used barrels (one to five years old) with regular bâtonnage. The wine is bottled after 12 months in barrel and a further six months in stainless steel. It’s a great release, full of mouthcoating, zingy fruit and stony energy.