2021 Müller Catoir Grosses Gewächs Bürgergarten Im Breumel Riesling

Organic. Im Breumel is a historic walled section (a ‘clos’ in other words) within the Haardter Bürgergarten vineyard. Müller-Catoir’s legendary former winegrower, Hans-Günther Schwarz, always insisted this parcel was the most important single site of the Mittelhaardt (or central Pfalz). Today, it gives us Müller-Catoir’s only Grosses Gewächs bottling. Exclusively owned by Müller-Catoir, this uppermost parcel of the Bürgergarten is protected by a sandstone wall that creates a warmer microclimate. The area, which faces towards the southeast, warms very quickly in the mornings and, due to its proximity to the forest, cools soon after sunset. The soil here is more impoverished than the lower section of Bürgergarten, consisting of pure mottled yellow sandstone gravel with a high ratio of decomposed stone. The fruit here is cropped at a very low 35 hl/ha. In most years, one-third of the wine is fermented and matured in 1,000-litre oak vessels. Expect a steady procession of flavours and structures building through the palate, anchored to tensile, nervy energy. When it gets going, the finish roars towards an extraordinarily long, complex and potent close. For those without the patience or inclination to wait, a decant and food will help this youthful siren sing.