2020 Domaine Laroque D'Antan IGP Côtes du Lot Nigrine Rouge

Nigrine is a tryst of Cabernet Franc and Malbec (massale selections sourced from Clos Rougeard and Clos Triguedina respectively), with a balance of Négrette, Prunelart and Jurançon Noir. Like the blanc, this is a true field blend. Emmanuel Bourguignon picks on freshness, looking to harness purity, delicacy and finesse, and wanting to “capture the freshness of the rocks”. In a region where many wines come in at a chewy 14 to 15%, this chimes in at a dainty 13% abv (the vintages on either side are even lower). Fermentation took place in concrete tank, followed by eight to 10 months aging in oak barrels from Domaine Dujac (aged between three and five years). Bourguignon explains that the choice of varieties, precise picking and rudimentary winemaking technique is, above all, geared towards drawing the most out of his limestone terroir. Even at this early stage, the evidence is compelling. The first rule of Nigrine: it looks and tastes nothing like what you may expect from the southwest’s often rustic canon. Day one it presents aromatically with pure red and blue fruits kissed by violets and baking spices. Focussed fruit and mineral tannin, purity and driving force make it hard to stop drinking (and eating duck confit). On day two there is more of the same clarity, detail and finesse on the palate, along with a wash of svelte texture met by a flurry of peppery spice and crisp, red-fruited acidity. It’s a compact and engaging wine with a lingering, savoury close. As the story unfolds in the glass, it’s the kind of wine you want to spend some time with, and then head back for seconds.