It started in the vineyard: hand selected fruit from two of Swinney’s oldest blocks, with precise vineyard management employed to eliminate any excessive exposure to the sun. In the cellar, this wine was whole-bunch pressed, only lightly settled and fermented naturally in neutral vessels, where the temperature of the ferments can rise as high as 20 degrees. These techniques are still highly atypical in the world of Australian Riesling. This is the kind of practice that can only work with outstanding fruit, and here it works brilliantly—creating superb texture and discrete complexity. Following fermentation, the wine rested, unsulphured, on lees prior to bottling. 2021 has proved to be a mild, and high quality vintage, providing excellent structure, fruit clarity and concentration. The result of all this is a dazzling riff on Frankland River Riesling; lime sherbert, ginger, Jonathan apples and whispers of sea breeze on the nose. The palate is vibrant, cool and intense with pithy citrus, lychee and honeysuckle. A fine spine of fresh yet pillowy acidity drives the flavours and texture to a long, briny and refreshing close.