NV Chandon de Briailles Vin de Liqueur Pousse au Crime NV 500ml

• Producer: Chandon de Briailles
• Varietal: Liqueurs
• Region: Burgundy
• Alcohol: 18.0%
• Net volume: 500ml
• Vintage: NV

Outside of the core range, there’s always something interesting to taste when you visit Chandon de Briailles—be it François de Nicolay’s négoce sans soufre wines, or something like Christian Knott’s skin-fermented La Vie est Belle. Even so, we were a little surprised to be presented with this Burgundian ‘Port’. This is drawn from late picked fruit in the very warm 2013’s harvest—mainly Savigny Lavières—where the fruit was picked extremely late (the end of October), crushed by foot, fermented and then fortified on skins (to 18.5%) using the Domaine’s own Fine de Bourgogne. The wine was then aged for five years in both topped and un-topped barrels before blending and bottling, with no SO2, in 2018. Pousse au Crime means to incite a crime, and this might certainly do that (by encouraging others to have a go at this wine style) as it’s absolutely delicious. The nose is packed with ripe plum, prune, coffee grinds and subtle, varnished oak leading to a silky, luscious, creamy, layered palate with similar notes—but mostly delicious characters of crushed raisins, milk chocolate and a long, warm and spicy close. Like a really, really fine Banyuls. Best served at cellar temperature with coffee and chocolate, but could also work with cheese and richer desserts (or, for the adventurous, a cleverly matched savoury course with the right sauce).

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