2021 Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc

• Producer: Domaine de Marcoux
• Varietal: Viognier
• Region: Chateauneuf-du-Pape
• Alcohol: 14.0%
• Net volume: 750ml
• Vintage: 2021
• Cellar until 2028

Following a series of warm seasons, Southern Rhone whites have embraced the fresh 2021 vintage with open arms. Marcoux’s gift to the firmament is a chiselled and savoury white Rhône, which seamlessly blends glycerol richness and mineral energy with alluring flavours of white flowers and white stone fruit. The finish is filled with light. Even as a young wine, this is riveting. Sophie recommends drinking this either within two or three years of release (before the wine closes down), or waiting for at least six or seven years, when the wine will reawaken from its slumber. It will live and develop for decades.

One of the French pioneers of biodynamic viticulture—this tiny, artisanal Domaine was the first in Châteauneuf to convert to biodynamics some 30 years ago. Since this time (and especially since 1996 when the Armenier sisters took full control), Domaine de Marcoux has been on a steady path to becoming one of the true greats of the region. Despite this, it remains small, only producing between two to four thousand cases for the world (roughly half the production of DRC and a tenth of Beaucastel to put things in perspective). So, for many, Marcoux remains a hidden treasure.

While the prime focus is given to the vineyards, in the cellar Sophie Estevenin’s subtle hand must also take some credit: natural fermentation; gentle extractions; concrete fermentation; and the absence of any new oak all play a vital role in quality and balance. Sophie’s son, Vincent Estevenin, officially joined the Domaine in 2015 and is intent on increasing his vineyard’s biodiversity, planting many trees on the property, and working the soil less to encourage grass and plants to grow between the rows. A seasonal flock of sheep help with the mowing, and young vines of Muscardin, Counoise and Vaccarèse (varieties that mature at a slower degree) are being introduced. “He has brought a breath of fresh air to the Domaine”, says his mother, while noting that she feels reinvigorated by her son’s involvement.

In a region renowned for ‘funk’, Marcoux firmly subscribes to the fruit-equals-terroir school of thought. They love wines of purity, clarity, perfume, seduction and balance

One exchange at a Domaine de Marcoux dinner seems to sum up the style here. A well-heeled attendee said to Sophie Armenier, “When I drink these wines, I can’t help but think of Burgundy,” to which Sophie replied, “Well, let’s not forget that there was once a time when the producers of Burgundy blended their wines with Châteauneuf!” It was not the first time the association had been made between the wines of Marcoux and those of the Cote d’Or. The remarkable elegance and purity that the Armenier sisters (Sophie & Catherine) can coax from their terroir easily remind us of the finest wines grown further North. Even in the more powerful years, the wines manage to retain an uncommon equilibrium where not one element detracts from the whole. Biodynamics, with its fresher acidities, helps in this cause as does the stringent fruit selection, gentle handling and large format maturation vessels.

In a region renowned for ‘funk’, Marcoux firmly subscribes to the fruit-equals-terroir school of thought. They love wines of purity, clarity, perfume, seduction and balance—a manifesto that can be tasted across the Domaine’s current releases. This is a timeless Estate whose delectable wines capture in Stephen Tanzer’s words, “…the essence of Châteauneuf-du Pape”.

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