2017 Massolino Barolo Margheria


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This plot in the Margheria MGA lies at 340 metres above sea level, on 1.1 hectares of calcareous soil with sandstone. The yield per hectare is 4.5 tonnes per hectare, while the average age of the vines is 35 years. The winemaking is traditional, with a long maceration of up to 20 days, then ageing in big oak vessels for 30 months. This 2017 is more austere than open knit. Margheria has the ability to combine sternness with elegance, here with a stunning intensity. Pomegranate fruit peeps out on the nose, while there's a crystalline floral character of Parma violets, dried cherry and liquorice, with some earthy tones. The attack is also austere, with firm tannins that are muscular and powerful and a velvety, refined texture. Firm acidity leads to a lifted finish.
Aldo Fiordelli - Decanter
The Brief
Alcohol
14.5%
Net Volume
750ml
Vintage
2017
Cellar to
2040
Light Dark
Wine Scale 5
Why's this wine for you?
Nine times out of ten, Margheria is the Serralunga cru that seduces best when young. This is no exception. Just stunning. On the one hand it's a classic Margheria - those wild florals on the nose and the strawberry/red-fruited brightness and finesse on the palate. Yet it is also clearly a deeper, more powerful rendition with a long, bloody, violet-noted close. Extraordinarily delicious now, it will also cellar very well.
How's it taste?
The flavour is classic and nicely harmonious, tannic when young and with considerable ageing potential, making it an unmistakable “Nebbiolo of Serralunga”. The perfume is ethereal, featuring spicy, tobacco and brushwood notes; there are also important mineral notes.
How was it made?
As with all three 2017 Crus, the Margheria was fermented in large, conical oak fermenters and had around 30 days on skins. It was then aged in botti for 30 months before bottling and then remained in bottle for a further year before release. Margheria is usually one of Massolino’s later-picked Cru vineyards—not so in 2017, when it was the first (a title usually reserved for the Vigna Rionda). Giovanni explains that with less white marl in this vineyard—a soil type that retains water—Massolino wanted to get the fruit off nice and early. As you can see from the reviews below the ends justified the means. This is a benchmark release for this wine—a superb, powerful and incredibly mineral Margheria.
The Who
Critic Reviews
Expert Review
Expert Review
96 Points
Aldo Fiordelli - Decanter
This plot in the Margheria MGA lies at 340 metres above sea level, on 1.1 hectares of calcareous soil with sandstone. The yield per hectare is 4.5 tonnes per hectare, while the average age of the vines is 35 years. The winemaking is traditional, with a long maceration of up to 20 days, then ageing in big oak vessels for 30 months. This 2017 is more austere than open knit. Margheria has the ability to combine sternness with elegance, here with a stunning intensity. Pomegranate fruit peeps out on the nose, while there's a crystalline floral character of Parma violets, dried cherry and liquorice, with some earthy tones. The attack is also austere, with firm tannins that are muscular and powerful and a velvety, refined texture. Firm acidity leads to a lifted finish.
Expert Review
Expert Review
93 Points
Monica Larner - Wine Advocate
More subdued aromatically speaking, the Massolino 2017 Barolo Margheria is timid on first nose and takes longer to open. I coaxed the wine in my glass for a while before getting a fuller picture of red and purple fruits, grilled herb, limestone and a spicy hint of white peppercorn. I remember the cooler 2016 vintage as beautifully exuberant and expressive overall, whereas this 2017 edition has a quieter personality.
Customer Reviews
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